Murals in Kuching

Location : Lebuh Wayang, Main Bazaar, Kuching Waterfront, India Street, Open Air Market ( all within walking distance )

Recommended route :

I came across these murals in downtown Kuching when I was planning the Amazing Race 2019 for my schoolkids. The Amazing Race is an annual family event where my schoolchildren’s families explore Kuching and perform tasks together to win. It is fun, exciting and a great bonding time for families and teachers. Having said that, I decided to compile all the murals that were a part of our Amazing Race for your enjoyment.

My recommended route starts at The Marian and ends at the Open Air Market. However, do take the time to explore Carpenter Street and the Old Courthouse as they are part of Kuching Old Town’s charm.

Time taken : 1-2 hours

Cost : $0

Menuai Kitai

Let’s start here, at the junction of Lebuh Wayang and Jalan Wawasan. ‘Tanah Airku 3.0’ is 3-part street art project commissioned by Petronas (Petroliam Nasional Berhad) and part 1 consists of this mural, Menuai Kitai. It is found on the wall of the front entrance of the Marian Boutique Lodging House and comprises of four children from the major races of Sarawak; Malay, Dayak, Chinese and Indian. It is painted on the second storey of the shop so your photographer would need to be positioned across the street to take a good photo of you and the mural!

Location : The Marian Boutique Lodging House https://goo.gl/maps/QAAE4KGAbaQxfkY18

Harmony

Part 2 can be found 30 steps down from Menuai Kitai. This mural is named Harmony and it depicts a Hornbill (Sarawak’s official bird) perching on Hibiscus flowers (Malaysia’s national flower). Did you know that male hornbills bring food to the female over the period of a month to prove themselves worthy mates. I think I would like being a female hornbill very much.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/sf4xHhLCHY7U8y5y6

Dayak costumes
Chinese, Malay and Kelabit costumes

Walk along the Main Bazaar and you will find many artistic motifs and paintings found on the archways between stores. Some of the paintings include monkeys and beautiful motifs, these ones depict the multicultural society of Sarawak with Ibans, Bidayuhs, Malays and Chinese in their traditional costumes.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/sHQRN44ncrSmFuZE6</p>

No photo description available.
Sampan River Taxi

Before the Darul Hana Bridge was built, sampans were a quick and cheap way of getting from one side of the Sarawak River to another. When I was a child, my grandfather used to take us out on sampan rides on leisurely weekends. With just RM 0.50 (one way), it was the most exciting 2 minutes that money could buy for an 8 year old. We would walk along the waterfront, beg our grandpa to take us across the river in the sampan and visit the Kek Lapis (layer cake) stores “across the river”. The best part of the trip was the Kek Lapis samples we could eat! There are still a handful of sampan riders today albeit their reduced numbers and the sampan rides still hold a dear place in my heart, 20 years later.

Location : Near the water fountain along Kuching Waterfront https://goo.gl/maps/v7g6bkSu8P1HfcTa7

Clouded Leopard and Cat Mural at Carpenter Street, Kuching City |  360Tour.Asia
Clouded Leopard. Source : 360tour.asia

Cut through Jalan Bishopgate from the Main Bazaar and soon you will see The Clouded Leopard, part 3 of the ‘Tanah Airku 3.0’ series. It is found at the junction of Carpenter Street and Bishopgate Street and is painted on second storey of HongLou Bistro. This is a rather interesting piece as it shows a common ginger cat running whilst wearing an Iban headgear. However, it has the lower body of a clouded leopard, an endangered species of wildcats that is native to Borneo and Sumatra. I know of babi hutans and hornbills, but I did not know that we had clouded leopards in Borneo as well.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/BcBTXNCSid2VAsr48

The Early Mercers

The Early Mercers is found along Jalan Barrack, at the entrance of India Street Pedestrian Mall. India Street which is famous for its shops selling textiles and fabrics. This mural pays tribute to the early settlers at India Street who sold beautiful cloths and fabrics.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/pXtKf6V5E7tpyCVw5

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The Original Flame. Photo source : Leonard Siaw Facebook page

As you enter India Street, you will find an alleyway named Kai Joo Lane. Here lies the mural, The Original Flame which depicts 3 hawkers selling local delicacies; chicken porridge, tafufah 豆腐花 (soya bean curd) and sotong bakar ketuk (grilled cuttlefish). Did you know that Kai Joo Lane was more commonly known as “Sa Lee Hang”, or rather Zinc Sheet Lane. This was because the shops along Kai Joo Lane had zinc sheet roofs.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/XL1QwToMqjiiYAqeA

No photo description available.
Chicken porridge hawker. Photo source : Leonard Siaw Facebook page

The first painting shows a hawker selling chicken porridge. Who doesn’t love a bowl of steaming hot chicken porridge and a cool rainy night? It is rumored that the children of this uncle now run our ever-famous Kuching Chicken Porridge at Jalan Nanas. I would frequent Kuching Chicken Porridge more if my Ajinomoto allergies were not that bad.

Kuching Chicken Porridge Location : https://goo.gl/maps/REFfgYDQMwbkdAP47

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豆腐花 Tafufah hawker. Photo source : Leonard Siaw Facebook page

The second painting shows a smiling hawker holding up iconic bowls containing 豆腐花 Tafufa. Tafufa is made from soybeans, and is this jiggly, light jelly that is served with some white sugar / brown sugar syrup. It is served both warm and cold and is widely consumed in Hong Kong and Taiwan. To this day, the the daughter-in-law of this hawker still serves the same old recipe at our Open Air Market. I made the mental note to visit her once dine-in restrictions are lifted.

Open Air Market Location : https://goo.gl/maps/khnykrynknWx4mrFA

Sotong bakar ketuk hawker. Photo source : Leonard Siaw Facebook page

The third painting shows a hawker selling sotong bakar ketuk (hammered, grilled squid). Personally, I’m not crazy about squid but I can imagine the appeal of grilled seafood! Unlike the other 2 vendors, it is believed that his daughters continued his legacy for some years before deciding to retire.

Orangutan Mural.

This 3D / 2D mural allows you to grip the handles of the wheelbarrow for your photo! When I visited, the wheelbarrow was not quite attached to the wall anymore, hopefully they have fixed it by now.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/tZPddQmvETmHG59o6

Lok-lok hawker; This uncle is selling some icy delights and lok-loks, with orangutans playing around him.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/7BDYxXkBS1po81wj6

There are plenty of murals along Jalan Power, one of which is this lok-lok hawker.

Location : R.G. Ais Krim Bergula Apong https://goo.gl/maps/pHn1h9pDMD6LKmdN9

This stall is one of the first of its kind in Kuching, selling local Gula Apong (Palm Sugar) ice-cream. It was set up long before other gula apong ice cream stalls so sure to order a cone with this OG (original gangsta). Don’t forget to snap a photo with the mural before leaving!

There are many murals located in this area but are not listed intentionally. Some are small and cheeky whereas others are huge and conspicuous! Let me give you some hints : Drunk Monkey, CHUBBS, Carpenter Street, Singgahsini atau ? Happy hunting!

Putu Piring Ibuk

Stall location : Lorong Kampung Pulo Hilir 8, Kampung Pulor Hilir, Kuching
https://goo.gl/maps/ew3X6sHuLMdeZ4DQ6

Distance from Kuching city center : 10 minutes by car, RM8 via GrabCar

Name & Contact Number : Razak, +60 17-507 5303

Facebook Page : https://www.facebook.com/putupiringibuk

Price Rating : $

Price : RM5 for 7 pieces, RM3 for 4 pieces

Opening hours : Currently closed due to COVID-19. Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. (until sold out)

Food represents the essence of one’s culture and identity, and nothing ever beats homemade food. Us Kuchingites pride ourselves in our local delicacies; Sarawak Laksa, Kolo Mee, Ayam Pansuh to name a few. However, the younger generations are slowly leaving behind well-kept family traditions and recipes in pursuit of their own aspirations. More often than not, the best hawker stalls and eateries in Kuching are manned by middle-aged aunties and uncles who have cooked for us for as long as we can remember. As a young adult myself, I can only imagine that very few of my peers would relish the idea of waking up at 3 a.m. , cooking and serving for hours on their feet before sitting down for a well-deserved break and meal, only to do it all over again the next day. Cooking is truly a labor of love and those in the F&B (food and beverage) industry can testify to that.

Putu Piring Ibuk on the other hand, is a home based business that was started by a group of young cousins. Before setting up their stall, their family prepared and enjoyed Putu Piring amongst themselves at family gatherings and special occasions. For those that are unfamiliar, Putu Piring (also known as kuih tutu) is a Malay snack that is more commonly found in West Malaysia. “Ibuk” in Bahasa Indonesia means “mother” and is used affectionately for mothers and aunts alike. Putu Piring is made of rice flour, grated coconut (santan) and palm sugar (gula apong). The filling is a wonderful combination of santan and gula apong and the process of making Putu Piring is more complicated than it seems. The softness of its texture and the sweetness of the filling all come together in this tender, pillow-like steamed kuih. It is delicate, fluffy and sweet and is traditionally served on pandan leaves.

7 piece box
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Gula apong filling. Source : Putu Piring Ibuk Facebook page.
From left to right – Rahman Hamdan, Razak Hamdan, customer, customer, Zeti Amiza Hamdan, Aishah Hamdan, Ishak Hasdi (cousin), Hasib Hasbi (cousin), Hasbullah Hasbi (cousin) Source: Razak

Whilst there are many excellent family-run eateries in Kuching, Putu Piring Ibuk stands out to me because it was a started by the youngest generation in the family. It is not the continuation of their family’s multigenerational stall, but instead, the continuation of their family’s multigenerational heritage. It was not established out of duty and obligation, but instead, pride and love. Their family came together and decided to share their love with us by doing what they know best – making Putu Piring.

These youngsters have made quite a reputation for themselves in Kuching, especially amongst our West Malaysian friends; Putu Piring Ibuk has patrons coming all the way from Serian (61km away), and they even mailed out an order to Sibu to satisfy the cravings of a pregnant customer! Kudos to them for going the extra mile!

The making of Putu Piring
Steaming process
Assembly and packaging

As they are all currently studying in secondary school or working full-time, Putu Piring is only available on the weekends. However, their stall is temporarily closed due to rising cases. We hope to visit them again soon! Razak can be contacted at +60 17-507 5303 as they are considering expanding into deliveries to cope with COVID-19 restrictions.

The cousins were all smiles on a busy day

Mount Matang Sri Maha Mariamman Temple Hike

Hike Information

Hike location :
https://goo.gl/maps/PhEPJs2dxJFN7wgd7

Distance from Kuching city center : 30 minutes by car

Hike difficulty : Moderate (depending on fitness level)

Hike duration : 2-2.5 Hours (start to finish)

Hike distance : 6,000m (start to finish), carpark – Mount Matang Sri Maha Mariamman Temple – carpark, approximately a total of 8,000 steps

Cost : RM5 for parking (per vehicle)

Opening hours : 6am-6pm, this may vary due to lockdown restrictions

Toilet availability : one at the base, one at the Temple

Things to wear/bring : Comfortable exercise gear – sports shoes, sweat friendly clothing, water bottle and a set of change

The Hike

Mount Matang is a short 30-minute drive from Kuching. For your information, public transport is not popular or widely available in Kuching so this journey will cost RM21-28 via grab car. This hike is popular with joggers, hash runners and cyclists due to its incline, as well as its smooth and largely shaded trail. One could argue that the bitumen work done at Mount Matang is much better than most Kuching roads that have surprise potholes and bumps, courtesy of JKR Sarawak.

Hike trail

Matang is a fast growing residential area with plenty of shops and supermarkets. Grabbing breakfast at a kopitiam on the way would not be an issue if not for flip-flop pandemic restrictions. I would personally recommend a light breakfast before the hike unless you are attempting fasted cardio. The Google Maps link is perfect and the carpark next to the temple entrance is nestled at the end of the lorong. The tuck shop next to the carpark sells snacks and cold drinks, and the toilet is basic and clean enough (BYO tissue paper). Entrepreneurial “parking personnel” will collect RM5 per vehicle as an unofficial hike fee. Birds gotta eat, fish gotta swim.

Answering nature’s call in nature
Tuck shop

If you exercise regularly (2-3 times a week), this hike should be comfortably manageable. For those that do little to no exercise, you can take your time walking up the path as some parts can be quite challenging. I would not describe it as a walk in the park as there are several stretches of steep incline along the way. Fitness enthusiasts can be seen jogging up and down the hike with their clothes drenched in sweat. The path is mostly shaded by the large, beautiful trees and you are prompted with signs at every 500m, indicating the distance you’ve covered. It took us exactly an hour to reach the Temple.

Hiking route
Signposts
Matang’s history

I learned about the history of Matang and more importantly, how this Hindu Temple came into existence. In the 1800s, Mount Matang was home to hundreds of acres of coffee and tea plantations; Indian and Sri Lankan laborers were brought in to work and toil in the coffee estates and naturally, they brought along their religion. The two shrines and Sri Maha Mariamman Temple were built by the Hindu workers and remain standing today to be visited and admired by all. To date, Hindus in Kuching still make the trip up and worship at the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple. If our local churches were built atop mountains and hills, I think we would have a much slimmer Christian population, both physically and numerically. Heh.

The hike begins with an extremely steep incline with little to no shade but do not be fooled as it tapers off a while, so consider this your warm-up. A Hindu Shrine is found in the first chapter of the hike. Don’t worry about topping up your sunblock as the remaining trail is shaded and cool especially in the morning. We started our trek at 9am and there were already people making their way downhill! Most hikers will greet you with a smile and a friendly “Good morning”. The wide pathway also allows for adequate social distancing and overtaking if necessary. Masks are not mandatory during the hike but if you’d like to improve your VO2 max then be my guest.

Beginning of the hike
Hindu Shrine 1

Watch out for certain sections at which the bitumen has given way to landslide and erosion.

⚠️ Eroded pathway
Beautiful hardwood trees can be seen all along the hike
Morning hikes are mostly shaded with streaks of sunlight every now and then

During the hike, we did not come across any animals (birds, insects, babi hutan). A discerning eye be able to point out the fig trees, belian trees and midin plants along the way but unfortunately, a layman like me could only point out the occasional patch of mushrooms. Most importantly, there were barely any mosquitoes so I was relieved.

Edibles?
“How high does the sycamore grow? If you cut it down then you’ll never know.” Not a sycamore

Shortly after crossing the 2500m mark, we find ourselves in front of the second Hindu shrine. This is where the trail forks so we decided to visit the Temple first before hiking to the villa.

Hindu Shrine 2. Path on the left leads to the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, jungle path on the right leads to Charles Brooke’s villa
The road less travelled is definitely the one leading to Charles Brooke’s villa

There are benches and a small stall selling drinks at the top of this hike. We removed our shoes and visited the temple. You could smell incense and hear melodious music playing from the temple speakers and of course, this is the best location for your photo op.

Take shoes off before ascending
Temple Rules
Mount Matang Sri Maha Mariamman Temple
View from the top

We left the temple and we attempted the jungle path that leads to Charles Brooke’s villa. However, it was blocked by fallen trunks and branches so we happily made our way down the mountain.

The trip downhill was much easier and faster but it takes a toll on your ankles and knees. Every step downhill felt harsh on my legs as it felt like we were constantly hitting the brakes.

Overall, Mount Matang was a slightly challenging but enjoyable hike. The cool shade and lack of mosquitoes were a huge bonus and we reached the base at exactly 11 a.m.

10/10 would recommend.